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Tuesday, 28 July 2009 |
 Lower Saddle Sunrise Entry from Daniel Hienzsch's journal...
June 27, 2009
Grand Teton National Park
Exposure, wicked cold, driving winds and ungodly views; but no summit. I slept until 3:30 AM, then awake immediately and laid in the tent, listening to the wind whipping. At 4 AM, I heard the alarm in the hut, followed by Darrent getting up, followed by a headlamp moving around outside. Then I heard hot water getting started. So, 15 minutes before Darren came to wake me, I knew we were going for it.
I kitted up in synthetic wool socks, base layer long johns, a standard wicking gym shirt, hiking pants, fleece vest, rain pants, gaiters, Kayland mountain boots, and a parka. In my bag: 160' rope, extra socks, rain/wind breaker, heavy/light duty gloves, first aid kit, signal mirror, my ice axe and my crampons. I brushed my teeth, drank some water, had a quick bite, grabbed my bag of snacks, donned my beanie and helmet and off we were at 4:45AM. Venus blazed in a dark, dark blue sky.
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Thursday, 23 July 2009 |
 A Quiet Moment Entry from Daniel Hienzsch's journal...
June 26, 2009
Grand Teton National Park
I woke to the sound of rain on my tent around 5:30AM after fitful sleep. I drifted in and out for another two hours, hoping the storm would pass. At 7:30AM, I put on my raingear, got up and brushed my teeth west of camp and settled into the Guide's Hut. In about an hour, the women arrived and there we stayed as the rain became slushy big snow flakes. For three hours we were confined to the hut, sitting around until the sun finally popped out.
Darren and I went out immediately to run through snow school while the women did some simple top rope work ont he boulders around camp. Snow school consisted of self arrest techniques: sliding on your back feet first, sliding on your belly head first, sliding on your belly feet first, and the most disconcerting, sliding on your back head first as you might if you lost your balance with a heavy pack on. We practiced glissading (sitting and standing) as well as short rope technique while the women worked on their climbing calls: "ON BELAY", "CLIMBING", "CLIMB".
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